Garden With Passion

Create a Bird Friendly Garden

Can you imagine a garden without birds - no spring robin, hopping about and searching for food. No tiny hummingbirds zipping from flower to flower. No little brown sparrows or black-capped chickadees scratching under the plants, or feeding at a seed-laden feeder. No cheery birdsongs to wake you in early summer mornings, and drowsy chirping to put you to sleep at night. It's simple to create a bird-friendly garden, where you can enjoy hearing and watching wild birds.

Birds can definitely use our hospitality - songbird populations are shrinking due to the loss of their natural habitat. Ever expanding urban development, use of pesticides and insecticides on farms and in our yards, roaming cats and even collisions with the glass windows of our buildings all contribute to their diminished numbers.

Picture instead a garden created as a bird-friendly habitat. Plants to provide shelter, food and nesting materials abound. Diverse plantings attract many species of birds, as well as the insects they feed on. Brush piles and trees provide shelter, nesting areas, and food. Whenever possible, encourage native plants, as their seeds are the natural food for native birds.

Sunflowers, goldenrod, coneflower and joe-pye weed are great plants to include in a bird-friendly garden. As these go to seed, finches, juncos, sparrows and goldfinches will be attracted. Hummingbirds are attracted to bold colorful plants, especially red ones. They prefer bell or trumpet-shaped flowers, such as bleeding heart, flag iris, bluebells, and wild geraniums in spring. Beebalm, butterfly weed, monarda, and verbena are summer favorites for the little hummers.

By keeping evergreens in your yard, you'll provide birds with shelter both winter and summer. Pine cones provide food for species such as crossbills, chickadees, finches and towhees. Hang a few birdhouses in your trees or on fence posts to encourage nesting.

Berry-producing trees such as mountain ash, Russian olive and crabapple are popular with birds, and are good food sources in fall and winter. Some of the best shrubs for attracting birds include Canada serviceberry, partridgeberry, common elderberry, common snowberry and the highbush blueberry. Robins love to rose hips, the fruit of rugosa roses.

Set up a feeding station to provide birds with food when natural and garden food is scarce and insects are few. Make sure your feeder is squirrel-proof and easily cleaned and filled. Why not hang several feeders, each with different seeds to attract a variety of birds?

Black sunflower seeds are favorites of cardinals, bluejays, finches and sparrows. Niger seeds atract songbirds and finches. And since the birds will come to rely on this food source, fill the feeders through the winter.

A hummingbird feeder will need cleaning every two or three days in warm weather, and the syrup is easily made. Simply clean feeders by scrubbing with hot water, and allowing to air dry thoroughly. Commercial cleaners may be toxic to birds.

Birds need fresh water so a birdbath in the garden is a good addition. It should be shallow, with sloping sides. The surfaces should be rough, and add a few rocks for perches. Scrub the birdbath and refill the water often, to keep the water fresh and minimize mosquito populations. Locate your birdbath in a sunny spot, away from trees or dense shrubs. Bathing birds are easy prey for lurking cats!

It's not difficult to design a bird-friendly garden. A natural-looking space is more attractive to birds than a well-manicured yard. Soon you'll have a friendly place to sit back, relax, and just do a little bird watching!

Rhododendrons

Rhodos and azaleas are two of the most beautiful woodland plants that can thrive in your garden. There are over 1000 varieties of rhododendrons, most with showy, colorful flower displays. They range in size from tiny species just inches tall to mid-sized shrubs to R. giganteum, which can reach 30 meters tall.
Rhodos are widely distributed throughout the world, occurring naturally almost everywhere except South America and Africa. Most familiar are the cool-climate evergreen species with their colourful blooms, originating in the Himalayas, southwestern China and northern Myanmar. Others are found, scattered across northern Asia, Europe and North America.

Landscapers love both species and hybrid rhododendrons (including azaleas) for their structure, size, colorful flowers, and the fact that many of them are evergreen. They are generally grouped in mass, with varieties that bloom around the same time, and flower colors that complement each other. Larger-leafed rhododendrons are used in informal plantings and woodland gardens, or as specimen plants. Larger rhododendrons can be pruned to develop a tree-like form.

Rhododendrons have fairly shallow fibrous roots and prefer light, well-drained acid soils high in organic material and a pH between 4.5 and 5.5. Mulching and careful watering are important, especially before the plant is established. In areas with poorly-drained or alkaline soils, rhododendrons can be grown in raised beds using acidic mediums such as composted pine bark. They prefer some shade, in a moist woodland setting, but if well mulched and irrigated, they can flourish in many locations. Because of their shallow roots, little or no cultivation should be done around the plants. Instead, weeds should be pulled or cut off; or better still, deep mulch will prevent most weed growth as well as retain ground moisture.

Rhododendrons may be rooted from cuttings or by layering.  With layering, cut a tongue on the underside of a low branch, less than halfway through, leaving the end of the branch partially attached to the mother plant. Slant the cut toward the branch's tip, and bury the branch with 2 - 3 inches of soil. Rooting may take several months. Rooting hormone can be used to speed the rooting process.

Propagating from cuttings is done  mid July to early fall (September-October), as the new growth is just hardening off (known as semi-hardwood). Take the cuttings in the morning, when the plant is most moist. Choose firm pliable wood just beginning to brown at the base, with mature leaves and no flower buds (flower buds are much larger than leaf buds). Cuttings should be 3-6 inches long, and the leaf area needs to be reduced by removing all but the top two-three leaves from the whirl and cutting back the remaining leaves by a third.

Cut the stem at the base at a 45degree angle, to allow for greater surface area.
Stick the cutting in a rooting hormone (number 2 or 3), shake off excess, and stick the cuttings in a mix of 50% peat moss, and 50% horticultural perlite or vermiculite, in a sterile pot.
Place in a greenhouse or cover the flat with a clear plastic bag (keep the plastic from touching the foliage). The plastic should not be tight and should allow for air circulation. Keep away from direct sunlight, and keep well misted. Bottom heat and extra lighting will encourage root growth.

Rooting takes about 6 weeks for evergreen azaleas and 3 to 4 months for large-leaf rhododendrons. Once rooted, pot or transplant the cuttings to 10cm pots into a sterile mix of 60% peat moss and 40% perlite, with a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote. Remove any terminal buds to promote sturdy well-branched plants, and harden the plants off slowly, both to temperature and light.

Care for your plants by feeding them in late winter or early spring with slow-release fertilizer pellets, or by top-dressing with blood and bone and well-decayed compost, coconut fibre, rice hulls or leaf mould. After blooming, deadhead the flowers to encourage a bushier habit in young plants. Be careful not to remove next season's flower and leaf buds.

Rhododendrons can live for many years in containers, an option for growers with difficult soils. There are specialized mixes available, but a freely draining, general-purpose potting mix will do. Plants in containers need extra watering. Plants growing together can be watered reliably by drip irrigation.

Most of the few problems that afflict rhododendrons can be solved by simply improving the growing conditions, rather than by chemical means. Generally, rhododendrons are sickened by excessive pampering.  Practice careful neglect with established rhododendrons which are performing to your satisfaction.  Keep your precious plants pleasantly moist in reasonably good soil and they will depend on you for little else.

Cotacachi Organic Gardens

Cotacachi, Ecuador is a great spot for organic gardens. The volcanic soil is rich, the rainy season brings the necessary moisture, and the sun shines almost every day. On our recent trip to Ecuador, we visited a new demonstration Ethno-Botanic organic garden that is being created near Cotacachi.

This organic garden is being developed by local farmers in conjunction with UNESCO, with the objective of retaining their traditional food and medicinal plants as well as training others in the farming methods. Above, UNESCO volunteer, Kenji, tells the group about the garden's layout, where each plot contains typical plants that are grown together.

The garden will keep alive the historic foods of the Andes, preserving the biodiversity of this highland nation. It is worked by volunteers from the community and abroad, as well as employing locals. Once developed, eco-tours will help support the garden. We were fortunate to be the second group to have a guided tour, learning about the foods, plants and farming techniques of the high Andes. Here, barley and beans grow side by side in one plot.

The 2 hectare plot contains a medicinal and herb garden, where traditional medicinal herbs such as mint, oregano, cedron and manzanilla are being grown. Alongside it, a pharmacia has been constructed where traditional recipes for salves, tinctures, essential oils and ointments are used to create products for sale. These sales will help support the garden. Here is the Pharmacia, with Merri and Alberto discussing the plantings of lemongrass, one of the herbs used in various recipes.

Alongside the medicinal garden is the food garden. Ecuadorian farmers have always practiced companion planting, and that's evident here. Within the garden, plants are grouped by the altitude that they thrive in. At the lower elevations, peas and wheat are planted together. Higher, barley and beans (similar to broadbeans) grow side by side. Next, corn and climbing beans grow, the tall cornstalks supporting the bean plants. Finally, a plot of quinoa and amaranth, shown in the foreground below, two of the ancient cereal grains (or seeds) grow together. Note the tall reeds in the background. These reeds are used by musicians to make the indigenous flutes and reed pipes.

In another section, kale, white and black carrots, peppers and cabbages are grown. Fig trees, tree tomatoes, blackberries, and Chinese gooseberries are some of the fruiting plants found here.

Several indigenous trees have been planted, with the intent of gathering seeds so these trees can be re-introduced to nature. The leaves are used for compost and the root systems help conserve water in the soil. The idea here is for these native trees, which balance the soil's minerals, to be re-forested eventually, and  replacing some of the introduced eucalyptus, which depletes the soil as it rapidly spreads.

A small pond is fringed with reeds, native to the lago San Pablo area, which are used for thatch and weaving of floor mats. Nearby, a juice bar is being constructed, where organic, natural juices will be available. A music hut (shown above) and a shaman hut are being built, with plans for musical training and concerts and shamanic ceremonies.

Although still in the development stage, this garden will help retain the culture of local farming, along with the bio-diversity of the crops. Seed banks will be set up, so none of these food and medicinal plants will be lost.

Gardening Under Cover - Make a Simple, Useful Cloche

Gardeners have used coverings to protect plants and to extend the growing season for centuries. Temporary shelters are known as cloches, and can be almost any size or shape. Sheltering your plantings with cloches offers protection in four different ways:

1. Trapping heat with the greenhouse effect. The sun's rays have radiant energy that becomes heat energy when it strikes the soil under cover. This warmth accelerates the growth of the plants.
2. Protection from damaging rain. Heavy spring rains can compact the soil surface  and wash seeds out of their soil covering. Wet conditions also encourage rot and disease, and can even rot germinating seeds. 
3. Protection from frost. By covering plantings in early spring and late fall, there is less transfer of the heat in the soil to the surrounding nighttime cool air, so plants do not freeze.
4. Protection from winds. Winds can damage plants by knocking them over or breaking stems. It also chills them. A covering will deflect damaging winds.

Any material that transmits light can be used to make a cloche. The original cloches (the French word for bell) resembled glass bells, and each one sheltered a single plant. Today, we have many possibilities - plastic containers with bottoms removed, recycled windows, supported plastic sheets, or commercially made cloches.

A very efficient and useful cloche can be easily made to cover an entire raised planting bed, thus functioning as a mini greenhouse. Cloches that you make yourself have three main advantages:

• They are low cost.
• They are easy to build and move.
• They can be made to a desired size.

Here is how to make a lightweight portable cloche that is both economical and reusable:

Supplies: 2 - 4 foot and 2 - 6 foot pieces of 2X2 lumber, 2 - 10 foot lengths of flexible 3/4 inch pvc pipe, 6 mil poly sheet, about 8X10 feet dimensionally, screws, 4 corner braces, staples and duct tape.

From sections of  2X2 lumber, make a rectangular frame 4 feet by 6 feet, screwed and braced on the 4 corners. Drill a 1 inch hole in each corner, but not all the way through. Insert two lengths of ¾  pvc pipe into the corner holes, and across diagonally, so they form an arched framework crossing in the center, much like a tent frame.

Now, lay the 6 mil poly sheet over the framework, and staple it snugly along the 6 foot sides first. Then snug it along the other two sides, and staple. You'll need to fold over the excess at the corners, sort of like how you gift wrap a box. Staple it down, and cover the staples on all four sides with duct tape. Trim off any excess plastic from the bottom. Re-staple through the duct tape for extra strength.

This lightweight cloche can be set over a raised bed, over a grouping of plants, or even over a freshly seeded area. You can easily lift it off for watering and weeding, or lift and support one side up for ventilation.
Build this simple cloche, and use your ingenuity to design and create others to fit your needs. With just a little expense and a bit of carpentry skill, you can add months to your gardening pleasure.

Fall Transplanting and Planting Tips for Successful Gardening

You've gone to your local nursery, and bought those shrubs you've always wanted, and best of all, they were on sale! Nurseries like to clear out stock in the fall, so this is a great time to buy. Now the question arises - do you plant them right now, or wait until spring? It seems a bit cold out, and you'd like to just stay inside and read by the fire.

Well, don't wait.  If you have a plant in a burlap ball or a container, that plant is going to
be much happier in the ground than on top of the ground. Cold winds can quickly dry out the root ball, and bingo - you've lost it. You can plant right up until the ground freezes solidly, when digging is impossible.

When you plant in the late fall, do not apply any fertilizer, and make sure you don't plant too deeply. The top of the root ball should be about one inch higher than the existing grade in normal loam soils.  In heavy clay soil you should plant a lot higher than that and then mound the soil over the root ball. Clay soils are pretty impenetrable when frozen, so let that plant's roots breathe, while still being protected somewhat from the weather by the looser soil.

The rules for fall transplanting are slightly different. Transplanting involves digging an existing plant out of the ground, and that is sure to cause some trauma to the roots. Do not do any fall transplanting until the plant is completely dormant for the winter. This won't happen until after they've experienced the first really hard freeze of the season.  Not just a heavy frost but an actual freeze, where the temperature dips below 32 degrees Farenheit for several hours.

Here's my method for preparing a plant for transplanting. Clear any leaves and debris from around the stem. Carefully, and with a sharp spade, mark a line around the plant.
Leave a 'rootball' that is about 12 times the width of the stem. For example, if the stem is one inch in radius near the soil line, then your rootball will be about 12 inches wide and 12 inches deep

As you're trying to create an actual rootball, dig away the soil that's outside that 12 inch radius carefully, and shape the rootball as you do so. When you get close to the desired depth, start inserting the spade under the rootball at an angle. Your spade should be sharp enough to cut the roots cleanly, careful not to break the rootball up.

Once it is free, you should be able to lift it out, or insert a wide spade beneath it to support it and slide it from the hole. At this point you may burlap it to hold the rootball, or simply transport it to its new location and plant it.

Once your plants are dormant, you can safely transplant them from then until early spring (snow and frozen ground permitting!) Once they start to wake up in the spring, transplanting is over until next fall.

Raised Bed Gardening

Raised bed gardening offers many advantages over traditional "in the ground" gardening. This simple technique will improve the health and productivity of your garden while bringing the soil up to a comfortable working level.

Raised container gardens are perfect for people with limited space, or who have a hard time bending over and kneeling on the ground for traditional gardening.

Improved plant growing conditions, bigger harvests, accessibility, and improved garden pest protection are just some of the advantages of raised bed gardening. Fertilization and water conservation are both more efficient in a raised garden bed. Gardening in raised beds simply means that you grow your plants above the level of the ground. In a raised bed, plants cover the bed areas; gardeners work from the paths.

When creating your raised beds, make them only as wide as can be easily worked from either side. Generally, the beds are constructed 3 to 4 feet wide and elevated between 8 inches and 2 feet. Taller raised beds allow gardening without much bending. Spaces between beds may be left in sod, mulched or even paved with stone or brick. In a vegetable garden, leave enough room for a wheelbarrow. Wood, brick, rocks, or cement blocks are all popular materials for making a raised bed. Wood is the most common choice, because it is easy to work with and it is inexpensive.

The best wood choices are durable materials such as cedar, cypress or redwood. With tall beds made of wood will need supports so that your bed will hold up the weight of the soil. You can use rebar  or wooden stakes inserted into the ground around the edges of the bed to support the wood. My cedar raised beds have lasted a decade, and are still in use.

With a raised bed you can basically start from scratch and create the soil environment that best suits the plants you would like to grow. Soil building is an important part of any garden and it's much easier to control that aspect of gardening with raised beds. The bed is a clearly defined area where the gardener can concentrate on soil improvement techniques.

Poor soil can be amended or replaced completely in a raised bed, eliminating soil borne diseases or improving the ability to hold moisture. You can fill the bed with your own mix of soil if the natural soil in your area is not that good for gardening. It's important to realize that soil compaction can reduce crop yields up to 50 percent. By eliminating walking on the soil, water and air can more easily penetrate the soil. The basic idea of a raised bed is that instead of battling against poor soil conditions, you build above ground, where you can have absolute control over the soil texture and ingredients.

Soil in raised beds warms faster in the spring compared to ground soil by as much as 15 degrees. It's a simple task to create a mini greenhouse with raised beds, by supporting a tunnel of clear plastic over a bed. Plants may be grown more closely together and thus they will crowd out weeds and shade the soil, reducing evaporation and keeping roots cooler.

Fertilizer, compost and manure can be concentrated in the small gardening area, so plants may be spaced closer together. In raised beds, it is easy to control weeds and pests with mulch - plastic, bark, or chips can be used. Raised beds elevate plants to a convenient working level, making them easier to tend and enjoy. It also reduces stooping and back strain by bringing plants about a foot closer to you.

Raised beds produce a variety of benefits: they extend the planting season; they reduce the need to use poor native soil; and they can reduce weeds and some pests if designed properly. Gardening can be a great activity for individuals with disabilities, with some consideration to the special needs of the gardener.

Raised bed gardening, space efficient and attractive, presents a secure and valuable area for your plants, vegetables, and flowers to thrive.